Shela beach Lamu

The ancient Swahili village often spelled Shela, sits at the start of the glorious Shela beach .In some places it even more medieval than Lamu, with a few signs of modernity along it s maze-like alleyways. Ironically the pleasing authenticity is mostly due to the large and expat population, who has restored many of the old houses –left to its own devices Shela would probably be far more dilapidated.

Shela’s first residents were migrants from the abandoned settlement of Takwa on Manda Island. The local people speak a distinct dialect of Swahili and you can see a strong evidence of Omani ancestry in many peoples faces. Although this is something of a European enclave, with almost unseemly amounts of building going on to cater for foreign demand, its still an atmospheric place to visit and wander around and the mood is just as languorous and laid back as it’s always been.

Sights and Activities in Lamu Kenya

There are no cultural attractions in Shela, but wandering around the village is a very amenable way to pass the time. Look out for the pillar-style Mnarini mosque behind Peponi hotel.

Most people are here for the beach –this spectacular dune-backed strip runs for 12 Kms around the headland, so you are guaranteed a private stretch of sand, and it’s a good place to comb the beach for shells. The Indian Ocean tsunami washed away a lot of sand here, revealing some sharp but it’s expected to return to normal within a few seasons.

At the start of the beach is a ridiculous mock fort, which was built by an Italian entrepreneur who had lots of money but bad taste.

There is no surf at Shela village because it lies at the channel between Lamu and Manda islands which makes it a prime spot for windsurfing. For traditional surfing there are real breakers at the mouth of the channel, although this is the realm of some substantial sharks.

Peponi hotels water sports center runs water skiing (Ksh 8000 per hour) windsurfing (Kshs 650 to Kshs 800 per hour) snorkeling (equipment Kshs 200 per day), deep sea fishing (from US$ 200 per boat) and scuba diving for certified divers between December and march (US$ 50/90 for one /two dives, including lunch).cheaper windsurfing gear is available at talking trees village.

Sleeping in Lamu Kenya Holiday Island

Stopover Guesthouse
(double Kshs 3000)
This is the first place you come to on the waterfront, above a popular restaurant by the same name. The rooms are nice and light with big beds; like all the places in this category, prices include breakfast and should be thoroughly negotiable when it is not busy.

Shella Bahari Guest House
(Double low season Kshs 2000-3000 high season 2500-4000) Another waterfront with a very similar setup to Stopover. Rooms open into a wide balcony above the bay and have sea views, nets, fans and Swahili furniture. Again, you can often bargain down – aim for around Kshs 500 per person.

Shella Pwani Guest House
(Double low/high season Kshs 2000/2500)
Behind the shop selling kikois, immediately behind Peponi hotel in this lovely Swahili house with carved plasterwork. Some rooms have fine sea views, as does the airy roof terrace, and all have fans and nets.

Dodo villas/talking trees campsite
(Camp sites per tent Kshs 400, r Kshs 600-1200, apt per person Kshs 200)
This is Lamu’s only budget beach option, 50m back from the Shela-Lamu track, with an extra lounge area on the sand. Its normal identity crisis reflects the varied nature of the accommodation: The main building has large unfussy rooms several concrete blocks hold apartments for up to ten people, with more being built. There is plenty of room for camping but no shade.