Berlin, Ja or Nein?

Is it:

-- home to a fantastic selection of museums and some of the world's most exciting architecture

-- scene of Europe's most vibrant art and gay scenes

-- a 19th/20th/21st century city, yes, but much of the history of those centuries was made there

-- cheaper and funkier than Paris or London

or is it

-- dirty & run-down

-- a sprawling mess that's difficult for a tourist to comprehend

-- notorious for cool manners and filled with bitter Ossis angry at the West

-- a city where anything interesting was demolished in 1945